Konaseema Diaries
The allure of a road trip is in the unexpected, the uncharted paths that lead to timeless stories and new experiences. This past weekend, I set off on a three-day drive to the heart of Andhra Pradesh, exploring the newly formed Konaseema District and the historic East Godavari District. What awaited me was the expected oasis of tranquil beauty, rich culture, and warm hospitality, and the unexpected conversations, that together left an indelible mark on my soul. In hindsight, I wish I had the luxury of extending my road trip by a couple of more days at the minimum. Oh well!
Driving through the lush landscapes of Konaseema, it was easy to see why this region is often described as the tropical paradise of the southern state of Andhra Pradesh. The district, officially known as Ambedkar Konaseema, was established in 2022, carved out from the erstwhile East Godavari district. Everywhere I looked, statues of Dr. B.R. Ambedkar stood as proud reminders of the district’s new identity. I had been to this part of the world once before but did not drive through the deep pockets of the region or explore the narrow country roads. The economy here revolves around rice and coconut, and the landscape is a testament to its agricultural heritage. Fields of green stretched out as far as the eye could see, interspersed with groves of coconut trees swaying gently in the breeze. Needless to add, no matter which part of this region you are in, you are only a few minutes’ drive away from the banks of the majestic Godavari.
We began our adventure in Amalapuram, the district headquarters. The air here is filled with the subtle scent of blooming tropical flowers, freshly made pickles, jack fruits, and other tropical fruits. The narrow roads beckoned me to explore the surrounding hamlets and villages. Each village has its own unique charm, from narrow lanes and houses that are relics and reminders of the past century in Peruru to the supposedly powerful and popular Vinayak temple of Ainavilli.
The villages of Nandampudi where we walked through the fields of a family member was an opportunity to touch and feel the wonders of nature. Those tall areca palm (betel nuts) trees, the enticing gooseberry trees, the subtle and crafty pomegranate trees, the more familiar but always inviting papaya, mango, and guava trees, and of course metres and metres of those giant coconut trees — they all took me back in time to my home town in Tamil Nadu.
The resort center Dindi which is located on the banks of the river is not well known among the locals but is slowly gaining its popularity amongst tourists who want to explore the area. I spent a night in one beautiful resort in the area.
The road trip also took me to the village of little known Adurru which offered glimpses into the country’s Buddhist past with their ancient architecture standing as silent witnesses to centuries of enriched quest for spirituality and the tragic plundering of architectural treasures by powerful men with opposing beliefs. Adurru, locally known as Dubaraju Gudi is a 2400-year-old Buddhist site and is a treasure trove of history. It is located close to the banks of the Vainetaya River, a tributary of the mighty Godavari. The foundation of the stupa here was laid by Sanghmitra, the daughter of Emperor Ashoka, on her way to Sri Lanka.
The Archaeological Survey of India excavated the site in 1923, uncovering several stupas, chaityas, and viharas. The Mahastupa, built on a wheel-shaped plan with a diameter of 17 feet, stood majestically, surrounded by raised platforms and Ayaka platforms on cardinal directions. Standing there, I could almost hear the whispers of ancient monks and the chants that once filled the air.
Conversations
Our driver, Ramesh, a man with a wealth of stories, became an integral part of our trip. He regaled us with tales of his work on film productions, driving regularly for many Telugu movies. His insights into the film industry were fascinating, especially his observations on how the Telugu film industry has shifted towards chasing box office numbers by producing big budget movies rather than entertaining the regular audience. “These big actors,” he said with a sigh, “are wasting their careers by doing only one movie every three years, unlike the heroes of the past.” His words were filled with a mix of nostalgia and wisdom, offering a unique perspective on the evolving entertainment landscape in these Telugu lands. I was not surprised hearing this from this extremely patient and wiser-for-his-age 30 odd year old man, given how much the people of this land love their cinema.
Another memorable conversation was with a boatman named Prakash during my tranquil boat cruise on the Godavari River. The rather quiet waters reflected the clear blue sky as Prakash shared his experiences of the river’s dual nature — its beauty and its dangers. He spoke of the devastating floods of 2022 and the unique fishing leases held by families in this part of the river. These leases, marked by poles with nets, relied on luck and judgement to yield their bounty. Prakash’s stories added a layer of depth to our understanding of the river, transforming it from a picturesque backdrop to a living entity with a story of its own. Even though we only cruised a small section of the river, I could imagine how many more stories this majetic river carried for each who cared to observe and for each who cared to tell.
Confluence
One of the most surreal experiences of my road trip was visiting the Antarvedi confluence, where the river Godavari meets the Bay of Bengal (technically through its tributary called Vasista Godavari). Walking into the waters and standing at the point where the river embraces the ocean was an almost spiritual experience. The beach, though underdeveloped, holds a raw beauty that is captivating. Antarvedi is also home to the Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy temple, a site of immense historical and spiritual significance. The temple’s origin story involves Sage Vasista and it adds a mystical layer to the already enchanting location. I tried to catch up on the history of the temple but the more I read it, the more impressed I was with how many layers our ancestors carefully laid over these complex interconnected stories.
Cuisine
No travelogue is complete without a mention of the local cuisine, and Konaseema/East Godavari did not disappoint. As someone who does not eat meat and especially not seafood (given how much the region is famous for the same), my exploration of the local food was somewhat limited, but the flavors I did encounter were unforgettable. One of the highlights was Kottekka Buttalu, idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves. The earthy aroma of the leaves infused the idlis with a unique flavor that was both comforting and exotic.
East Godavari is also famous for its desserts, and I had the pleasure of sampling two of its most renowned sweets. Pootharekulu, or paper sweets, are a delicacy made most popularly in Atreyapuram. These flaky, crisp treats are made with rice paper filled with ghee, dry fruits, and sugar or jaggery. The artistry involved in making Pootharekulu is incredible, and each bite is a delightful explosion of flavors. I am familiar with this sweet and have indulged in the same but to be in the middle of where they invented the delicacy was special.
Another sweet delight is Mamidi Tandra, or mango jelly. Made with mango pulp and sugar, this rich, jelly dessert is a favorite among mango lovers. The process of making Mamidi Tandra is labor-intensive, taking around four weeks to prepare, but the result is worth every effort.
Community and Caring
My road trips or travels in general have never been just about the places I visit but have almost always been also about the people I meet along the way. I make an effort to familiarize myself with the local culture and social etiquette a bit before the trip. And if I can engage in conversations with the locals in the local language, then I make an effort to do that. This trip was no exception. (I secretly gave myself a pat on my back when I learned that my driver actually found out that Telugu is not my native tongue only towards the end of day two of our road trip, when he chanced upon a reference to Tamil Nadu as my home state during one of my conversations and not through my attempted Telugu speaking.)
From the friendly locals with whom I tried to stir up conversations and who shared stories of politics of the region in general and talked about the impact of the recent change in government, to the farmers who spoke passionately about the latest mango crop — every conversation added a new layer to my understanding of the region.
Every road trip becomes enriching precisely for this reason. An opportunity to learn through the life stories of people of the land who live the life. These short interactions make me feel like a part of the community, even if only for a short while.
What topped all these interactions during this particular road trip was when I was invited to speak to a group of 150 students at a local school — 12 to 15 year olds. This was in a formal set up inside a school auditorium and I was asked to share my entrepreneurial and life experiences with them, underlining life skills that I could see them benefit from. These young minds from this small town impressed me with their curiosity and they continued to interact with me until the organizers politely asked me to stop (as I was running overttime). The future of the country is bright and I just hope certain adults with their conservative mindset do not deter these inquisitive minds from exploring progressive ideas.
As we drove back and then as I type this, the memories the past three days from Konaseema and East Godavari continue to linger in my mind. The lush landscapes, the ancient sites, the vibrant culture, and the warm hospitality had all combined to create an experience that was both enriching and rejuvenating. The trip had been a reminder of the beauty that lies in the simple, everyday moments and the stories that connect us all.
If you are a nature enthusiast or a culture explorer, Konaseema and East Godavari offer a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be discovered. From the serene backwaters to the bustling road side markets, from ancient temples to modern-day conversations, this region is unique. It is like visiting Kerala without the hills and mountains. Whether you’re traveling by train, boat, or bus, every glance at the surrounding countryside reveals the cultural wealth and geographical variety of this tropical paradise.
In the wise words of my driver Ramesh, “Each state in this country offers something unique. One just needs time to explore.”
I am glad I got to immerse myself for a short while in a world where history and nature came together to stimulate and relax my mind. In the quiet ripples of River Godavari and the humid murmurs of Konaseema’s landscapes, I found not just a journey through miles, but a passage into the timeless embrace of rural serenity — one that let me realize (again) that true discovery during your travel lies not only in the places we visit, but in the stories the land and the people whisper, and the hearts they touch along the way.
